North to Praia a Mare.
As the train enters Calabria from the North the first stop is
Praia a Mare and if you arrive during the summer months you’ll soon find out
that Calabria’s economy is based and dependant on tourism. Travelling from
Scalea to Praia a Mare by train takes just a few minutes and by auto bus it is
no more than fifteen.
Mausoleum Tortora Marina. |
I believe the name Praia
(written Praja at the station, but ‘J’ does not exist in the Italian alphabet)
is of Magna Grecia origin but little evidence of its Greek past can be seen
today except for the ruins of a mausoleum on the highway SS18 just outside of
the town, and without a distinct centro storico the town has a certain modern
yet relaxed feel about it.
Today the town is well prepared for the summer influx of Italian
tourists with a coastal lungomare (promenade) and a modern wide pedestrian
walkway inside the town, as the Italian holiday maker’s needs are sun, sea, sand
and somewhere for a passeggiata,
that strong Italian tradition of a leisurely walk or stroll,
taken in the evening for the purpose of socialising and showing off their
latest designer clothing acquisition.
.
Dino island. |
A short swim or maybe even a deep wade off the beach
is the Island of Dino, it’s small, uninhabited but still Calabria’s largest
island and famed for its grottos (caves) which can only be entered via the sea.
The blue and lion grotto are quite spectacular. During the summer season you
can take a boat trip to enter these caves or if you’re feeling energetic hire a
pedalo. On the coastal spit next to Dino Island there is a very impressive
Byzantine tower built for the purpose of deterring the Saracen pirates, but
again as with the Scalea tower it’s potential as a tourist attraction is ignored
and it too sits abandoned.
Sanctuary of the Madonna della grotto. |
Still a working church it is a popular place for wedding ceremonies.
However the steps up the mountain and into the church could be a challenge to those with walking difficulties.
In the hills behind the plains of Praia de Mare lie the towns of
Tortora and Aieta, both pretty towns that can be visited in a day but as they
sit on opposing mountainsides it means traveling up to one and then going down to
start the journey back up to the other.
Tortora |
If I had the choice to visit just one of these towns my choice would always be Tortora, as having its roots with the arrival of the Greeks it is the much older of the two, translated into Greek the town’s name means tortoise, while Aieta means Eagle.
Museum exhibit. |
The ruins of a Greek mausoleum can be seen in Tortora Marina (however the Marina is closer to Praia de Mare than Tortora hill town) and as so many signs of Greek and pre-Greek settlements have been found in the area this town has a small but very impressive Greek museum.
Giuseppe Garibaldi and his troops entered the town during the quest to unify Italy and picture plaques with the story of his march adorn the town.
South to Diamante.
In English the word diamante has become synonymous with a false
diamond, in Italian it means diamond and you’ll find there is nothing false
about this beautiful town.
Diamante |
Diamante North promenade (lungorage). |
Taking a steady stroll up this beautiful and well maintained promenade with its clear sea and mountain views eventually leads to the centro storico, but don’t forget to take in one of its cafes or ice-cream parlour’s along the way.
The Centro storico built in the 17th-18th century and modern compared to most of the other coastal towns in this area holds its own against its older neighbours with the many murals that adorn its houses. I believe work started on most of these murals in the early 1980’s and they have been maintained or replaced ever since giving the town the title of The city of murals, I’ve been to Diamante many times and probably still not seen them all.
Also not to be missed is the mosaic which stretches the full height of the rear wall of the church, the mosaic tells the history of this part of Calabria in picture from the cavemen of Papasidero to the destruction of Cirella by Napoleons troops in the 19th century.
During September The town holds a world famous chilli festival and its Christmas market held the first week in December takes over the whole town.
Diamante centro storico. |
Along the headland at Cirella. |
In the modern part of town on the coast (Cirella Marina)
you can see unearthed sections of Roman and Greek walls and the external walls
of the French fort built in the Napoleonic times. From the fort there is also a
very pleasant coastal walk around the headland where the foundations of a Roman
villa are still visible, the original Roman town of Cirella was sacked by
Hannibal and his troops around 205BC.
Looking up onto the hills are the ruins of medieval Cirella which was laid to waste by Napoleonic French troops, I’m yet to discover why.
On the same hill there is a modern amphitheatre said to be built on top of an original Greek one, and a small Franciscan monastery which has recently been restored.
Cirella Fraciscan monastery. |
Around Cirella ruins. |
Buonvicino. |
No comments:
New comments are not allowed.